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Top 10 Tips for your new kitten/cat

Your new cat is about to arrive, its all very exciting for you but please remember that for your cat it might not be, much might have happened in its past and it may even be terrified.  By following these 10 tips it will be much easier  and happier for your cat to adjust to you and its new home.

1. Everyone in your home must want a cat. Make sure that all family members actually want a cat. Everyone should be aware of the tasks associated with keeping a cat and decide who does what.

2. Understand what your cat is trying to tell you. Did you know that your cat can make up to 16 different sounds?  Try to understand what different sounds and types of behaviour mean.

3. Get everything ready for your cats arrival.  You will need a litter box (with the brand of litter she’s used to; Food and water bowls, with the food that she is used to, A suitable scratching post at least a metre high, Toys that are safe and will stimulate her (if you give her squeaky toys you’ll know when she’s playing), a bed with a soft blanket or towel and grooming tools.

4. Identifier. Your cat will already be microchipped. If you do give your cat a collar make sure it’s a safety collar with an elastic panel that will break if the collar becomes caught on something

5. A secure place. When your cat arrives with you she must have a place of safety such as a quiet room. Place her food bowls, toys and litter tray in the room

6. Routine. Give your cat the same food, feeding times etc as she is used to. If she has toys already use them and her old bedding if its suitable. This can be altered later to suit both of you.

7. Time and place. When she arrives place the carrier with her inside in the room you have made for her. Open the carrier door to let her out  and leave the room, shutting the door. Cats like to take control of their territory so if left alone will be less anxious and will be able to claim the space as her own. Usually a cat will hide at first until she feels comfortable. This is normal and nothing to worry about.  Your new cat needs to become familiar with everything around her. Give her a few hours before returning to the room and then do not make any sudden movement.  Sit or lie on the floor and talk to her so that she becomes used to your voice.  Sit quietly or read a book for awhile so that she becomes used to you. Do not reach towards her (unless she comes to you) If she still seems anxious or is still hiding then  leave quietly. Let her get used to the sounds of the house. She may need to stay alone in the room for up to a week, certainly a day or two. Do not introduce friends etc until she is comfortable in her home.

8. Bonding.  Introduce each member of the family in the same way as yourself. As she becomes used to you try some gentle stroking then grooming. A simple shoe lace is a toy that cats enjoy, let it trail on the floor and pull gently so that she can chase it. Introduce more toys. If there are other pets in the house, bring them to her so that they are on her territory and always supervise until they are used to one another.

9. Joining the family. Finally it will be time to let the cat into the whole house. You will know when she is ready because she will come to you when you enter her room and/or possibly try to follow you out. Before doing so make sure that there is nothing dangerous for her to chew or swallow (like loose paper, cleaning materials or poisonous plants) and keep sharp objects away and cover loose wires. Make sure that all windows anre closed and cat flaps locked so that she can’t go outside.Then slowly introduce the cat into the house by letting her out of her room and allowing her to go where she chooses. Leave the door open so that she can go back to her safe place when she is ready. If she runs back into her room and hides then it is too soon.

10. Going outside. A new cat should be kept indoors for at least 2 weeks. This stops her straying back to her old home, getting lost or even injured on a road. The first time she is let outdoors it should be beforer a mealtime so that she jas a good reason to come back. When you ,let her out, stand by the door and let her sniff and explore for a few minutes then call her back and/or rattle her biscuit box. Do this a few times over a few days so that she becomes used to her immediate environment and knows where home is.

10 Things to think about before adopting a kitten

1. A cat can live for up to 20 years, a kitten is a kitten for a few months.

2. A kitten has a different personality than an adult cat . An affectionate kitten can become aloof for example, cuddly kittens may become shy cats

3. A kitten needs to be house trained

4. A kitten takes longer to bond with its owner than an adult cat

5. Kittens require constant supervision, adult cats do not

6. Kittens can be very active at night time, they can be unintentionally destructive such as overturning vases, chewing things, climbing curtains

7. Kittens haven’t developed their immune system, there can be costly vet bills

8. Kittens cannot mould to the personality you want, an adult cat has developed its personality

9. Adult cats are often more affectionate

10. Kittens can change their appearance, a blue eyed kitten may end up with green eyes, short haired kittens may have brush like tails, fluffy kittens may end up with sleek coats etc

The Branch does not rehome a kitten to a family with a child under 5 years. This is for the safety of both kitten and child.

It is generally better to rehome a cat than a kitten. A cat has developed its personality, its often more affectionate, it is house trained and is less likely to need veterinary treatment. A cat will be able to master its surroundings and feel at home.

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Its wonderful to give a cat or dog a new home but please read below first.

When you get your new cat home make her feel at home

How to introduce your cat to other cats in the house.

Despite popular belief, cats are quite social and have hierarchies. However these work differently than those of dogs. They use what is called a relative hierarchy. This means that each cat has a different position at any time, place or situation, so that under one set of circumstances a particular cat will be leader but in a different set of circumstances another one will lead. It is not always the biggest or strongest cat that is leader. Your new cat needs to establish her position in the cat household.

Introducing your new cat to the others.

This should be done slowly. It will usually be the resident cat that may display hostility. The new cat may have been used to being solitary or the reverse. Introductions should only be done once the new cat leaves her safe room. For the first time let them meet whilst doing something enjoyable – usually eating! Place the new cats bowl close to the open door of her safe place and that of the other cat/s on the far side of the door and let them feed. The next time, bring the bowls slightly closer together and carry this on until they are comfortable with each other. As an alternative you could thread a shoelace either side of the door so that each cat can play with it (tug of war) with the door closed.

Another tactic could be to swap the cats blankets so that they become used to each others scent. Whilst your new cat is exploring the house, the other cat/s could visit the new cats room At this stage it is scent that is important, not sight of each other.

The final stage is to physically introduce them, ideally at a mealtime. All the cats should be fed  at the same time but initially in opposite sides of the room. There may well be some growling and hissing but this is to establish the new pecking order. (If the cat does seem upset or conflict looks likely then they should be separated and the introduction tried again later). Once they have finished eating they should be separated. At the next mealtime they should be left together for slightly longer and the time increased at each meal, still under supervision, until they seem comfortable with each other.

Suppose my cats do not get on with one another. If it is not possible for one cat to hide from the other and one becomes aggressive then that chain of aggression must be broken otherwise the aggressive cat will build on it. Try and reads the body language of the cats and if conflict seems likely then distract them. This could be by making a loud noise, throwing a toy in the opposite direction or even hissing. If necessary separate the cats until they have calmed down. There can only be one top cat and they will normally establish that for themselves. If a fight does break out then distract them (as above) and then pick up the aggressor and give him a hug/kiss. Brush him first, greet him first. This reinforces his top cat status. Do not do the same for the loser – it is difficult to do this but it is essential.

If there is still aggression then  make sure that each cat has her own space to sleep, feed etc and have sufficient distractions, such a toys, to keep them occupied. A few hidden toys may help as well. This stimulates them giving them less reason to be aggressive. It is also im portent that the cats have places to hide (such as boxes, wardrobes, under chairs etc) as well as areas above ground such as window sills, shelves or cat trees. Cats tend to feeler safer in high places.